bNomadic
The majestic Bara Shigri and night-drive by the Chandra River
The following is a page entry from On Road through the trans-Himalayas. To read complete travel memoirs and trip report, please visit here.
The 5148 m Gammo Peak in the Losar Valley
Chapter 9 of 22
The following morning, weather Gods clearly supported our plans. Having spent a week in Spiti, we were now geared up to enter the Lahaul Valley over the notorious Kunzum La (4595m), a godforsaken passage through rock, stream and strong wind. Registering ourselves at the Losar checkpost, without any precise idea of the condition of the road ahead, we started the ascent a little late in the morning. The soul-filling journey through the Spiti Valley beneath an ageless blue sky at a minimum 3000m altitude was finally coming to an end.
Six-thousanders in the Losar Valley. There are about fourteen peaks, above 5900 m, around the watershed of Suvita nalla. For more pics, please visit Flickr Photostream
Peak 5193 m in the Losar Valley
Leaving Losar
Peak 5255 m Shilatakar. Please visit Flickr Photoset for more pics of the region
The ascent through the ‘road-less’ narrow road full of dust warranted a final view of the Spiti valley. A little ahead of Losar, in the middle of the vast and sandy flats of Leh Thanga, three streams descending from Kunzum Range meet to form the Spiti River. The inexplicable and magnificent topography reminded of Nicholas Roerich’s shades of canvas portrayed in a gallery dedicated to him at Naggar, Manali. Sloping through a pasture-like country, the road narrowed down to climb steadily over hairpin turns and switchbacks over a glacial moraine terrain laden with shining slates all around.
Climbing the Kunzum La
By the infant Spiti River. For more pics of the region, please visit Flickr Photoset
Chandra-Bhaga group of peaks on the other side of the Kunzum La. Find out more on Flickr Photoset
To make it less prone to traffic obstructions, the authorities are in the process of constructing parallel roads on both the sides of the pass. Managed by the state administration (PWD), a blockade here may take days to clear unlike the Manali – Leh – Srinagar highway maintained by the Border Roads Organisation (BRO).
The State Highway No. 30; the slopes of the Kunzum La as well as the 4525 m Balhamo La in the shadow of CB peaks. For more pics of the region, please visit Lahaul & Spiti Photoset on Flickr
Lungba Tokpo. For more pics, please visit Flickr Photoset
A shrine dedicated to Shiva near the pass top. For more pics, visit Flickr Photoset
Colourful vistas from the pass. For more pics, please visit Flickr Photoset
View towards the Spiti Valley. For more pics of the region, please visit Flickr Photoset
Literally meaning a meeting place of Ibexes, the Kunzum La certainly deserves the distinction of being one of the most striking passes in the Himalayas. On clear weather days, the view, dominated by the Chandra Bhaga peaks, Batal as well as Karcha Valley, is worth every inch of the hike. Lodged between the Chandrabhaga group of peaks, the Dakka Glacier was the site at which the wreckage of India Air Force AN12 crash, in which more than 100 lives were lost, was recently discovered.
Mighty Kunzum La; wedged between CB peaks, the Dakka Glacier in the backdrop. Visit Flickr for more pics
From the pass, the view towards the Lahaul Valley encompassed lofty barren mountains, rocky massifs, hanging glaciers, numerous cwms and several six-thousand-ers soaring high above the Chandra River. The crest of the pass is marked by the fluttering colourful prayer flags, chortens and rhyming wind chimes as well as a small shrine dedicated to Kali Devi or Kunzum Devi. Just next to the shrine, a recently built foot track descends to the Chandrataal via the Balhamo La.
Wind-chimes did produce theatrical effect! Visit Flickr Photoset for more pics and peaks
Having performed the quora around the shrines, we spent some leisure time at the top. While I got myself to click the birds, the cousin occupied himself with his own usual stuff. Rambling around and facing what could really be the fiercest of winds, we spent a couple of hours at the top. Taking full advantage of a clear weather day, I tried capturing the vivid landscape highlighting the known natural formations and landmarks.
Locally called Rizit, a Horned Lark atop the pass. Please visit Flickr Photoset for more pics of the region
Downhill, the steep and scary road descends over 22 switchbacks to reach the junction for road to Chandertaal and Batal. For the current visit we decided to drop the idea of going to the Chandertaal and proceeded on to reach Batal (3950m), a settlement housing a few shops, dhabas and a PWD Rest House. Busy capturing the varied landscape and wildlife, we unhurriedly descended to reach Batal in about three hours. Downhill, we keenly anticipated the road-condition to improve after Batal, positioned at the base of the pass, in the arid landscape. To add to the horror, the condition of the road kept getting worse until we reached Gramphoo on the slopes of the fearsome Rohtang La.
The narrow motorway takes you to Chandartaal. Visit Flickr Photoset for more pics
Descending towards Batal in the Chandra Valley of Lahaul. Please visit Flickr Photoset for more pics
The bridge over River Chandra at Batal. Visit Flickr Photoset for more pics of the region
A little ahead of Batal towards Keylong on the left of energetic as well as voluminous Chandra River stood the magnificent Bara Shigri Glacier. More than 10 km in length and over a kilometre wide, the Bara Shigri is Himachal Pradesh‘s largest glacier. The other fascinating landmarks visible from the road includes Papsura (6451 m), Dharmasura (6446 m), Devachan, Lalana, Mahura, Pinnacle, Baldor, CB 13, 14, 16, 17 peaks, Sara Umga Glacier, Chota Shigri Glacier, etc. The entire road-length from here onward till Gramphoo is strewn with boulders on both sides.
Marking the junction between the monsoon-influenced southern edge of the Pir Panjal (Lesser Himalayas) and the Great Himalayan Range, Lahaul provides one of the best preservation evidence of glaciation within the western Himalayas. The dominant vegetation north of Pir Panjal is grassland which decreases in cover northwards making the upper Chandra and Bhaga valleys totally devoid of vegetation.
The Lower Bara Shigri Glacier and the narrow motorway. Visit Flickr Photoset for more pics and peaks
Dharamsura and Papsura above Lower Bara Shigri Glacier; also notice the motorway
Lalana at 6265 m above Lower Bara Shigri Glacier
By the time we reached the forlorn huts that serve as the Chota Dhara PWD Rest House (3800m), the daylight started to weaken. It took us more than two hours to cover the 32km distance from Batal. Driving on the worst section of the road till now and eventually of the entire journey, for the first time I thought of a 4×4 fitted with larger-radius tyres. But the reliable Innova didn’t frustrate much. The only issue was its lower ground-clearance for which we had to be extra-cautious in saving the fuel tank, located underneath, from any damage by the stones. I’d often get down before negotiating a treacherous stretch and observe the terrain very carefully to safely guide the vehicle out of it.
Not a stream but the motorway
In the expectation of a better road ahead, we continued our journey with no further breaks. Crossing rivulets on the way, we took nearly an hour and a half to descend and reach Chhatru (3350m) in the dark. Since morning we had only crossed two taxi-vehicles, a bus and two cyclists. The limited traffic movement added to our worries but on reaching Chhatru, a popular base for many treks in the region, we got a sigh of relief. The place comprised a few road-side dhabas and a PWD Rest House which were all occupied by trekkers and tourists.
Prepared to call it a day, I joined the hubbub of the tent-camps only to find the momentary relief quickly turning into misery for the night. The limited camps at the site had no place left to accommodate us. As advised by a Sardarji operating one of the parachute-tents, we proceeded towards Gramphoo to finally reach the district headquarter Keylong (3080m). As per him we were still three-hours away from our destination for the night. Accordingly we had to replenish our supplies for the remaining journey.
Just as we left Chhatru in the dark starscaped night, the rattle of the iron-bridge coupled with the boisterous Chandra added the thrill that surely harmonised with the terrain. The road ahead on the slopes of Pirpanjal was no better than the previous stretch. A typical Rohtang-like narrow motorway comprising loose rocks and nalahs flowing through, the 16km-stretch gradually climbed to Gramphoo (3420). Although it was stark dark, the grazing horses and sheep as well as shepherds’ tents illuminated on the changing terrain from rocky wasteland to soft and muddy green territory. Compared to Spiti, Lahaul valley is located at a lower altitude and is greener. The pasture-like vegetation of Lahaul receives little rainfall which in fact is more than Spiti
The road after Gramphoo was a luxury after the day’s drive. Based at the junction of Manali-Leh highway and Batal – Rohtang link road, Gramphoo is just a couple of dhabas thing. I had been on this road before, which boosted our confidence to drive up to Keylong at this time of the night. Another consolation was that we were now entering a territory increasingly dominated by adventure lovers, mountain-bikers, enfielders, etc. Having lost the BSNL signal after Losar, the connectivity of Airtel as well as BSNL improved after Gramphoo and reached its peak at Keylong after which it vanished again. We took another couple of hours from Gramphoo to reach village Beeling, just before Keylong where we preferred to call a halt.
Upper Keylong captured from Karding Monastery. Captured later by Sarabjit Lehal
The administrative headquarters of Lahaul & Spiti, Keylong is positioned on the right bank of Bhaga River. Apart from the renowned Karding following the Drukpa or red-hat sect, the other monasteries of the region include Shasur, Tayul and Gondhla, etc. Divided into parts comprising Lower and Upper Keylong, the town provides all possible facilities to continue the journey including guesthouses, hotels, shops, tea shops, etc. The 12th century Karding Gompa is located on the slope of the 4580m-Rangcha Peak on the left bank. Connected both by a trek and metalled road (from Tandi), the monastery was renovated in 1912 after a devastating earthquake that damaged the building. Based on my previous visits, a separate blog on the area shall be uploaded soon.
On the way to Keylong, we passed through the villages of Khoksar (3170m), Sissu (3100m), Khanglas (3180m), Gondhla (3250m) and Tandi (2960m). A few kilometres before Sissu, a village with decent options to spend the night, just along the river is the site for the Lahaul-terminal of the under-construction Rohtang tunnel. The construction-related activities at the drilling site have lead the locals taking up the business of guesthouses and hotels. The settlement of Tandi is located at the confluence of Chandra and Bhaga rivers originating from either sides of the Baralacha La. The Chandrabhaga, or Chenab in Jammu & Kashmir, is the most voluminous river originating in India.
Confluence of Chandra and Bhaga rivers at Tandi. Captured later by Sarabjit Lehal
Lahaul and Spiti valleys combine to form among the largest and least inhabited districts of India. As per the official website, the district has achieved impressive sex ratio as well as literacy rate while the population density is just 5 inhabitants per km sq. Sharing a common culture, both the valleys are quite different in character physically as well as geologically. During British days, the independent entities Lahul and Spiti were part of Kangra district of Punjab. Now imagine that!
View and read more on the region at the Lahaul & Spiti Photoset on Flickr
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The Highest inhabited village in the World
The following is a page entry from On Road through the trans-Himalayas. To read complete travel memoirs and trip report, please visit here.
Chapter 8 of 22
“Highest inhabited village in the world”
Like every morning, having started the day with Yoga and overjoyed with the activities of the previous day and also of the fact that we had done our bit to get acclimatise with the high-altitude, we checked out of the Kaza-guesthouse after consuming a heavenly breakfast. The plan was to visit the ancient Ki monastery, take the road to reach Kibber, said to be the highest inhabited village in the world and take the narrow link-road to reach Kiato. However, after a mandatory re-check that I conducted with the help of a local taxi-driver at Ki monastery, the plan warranted a change. This was due to the bad condition of the bridge connecting the Kibber and Chicham village over the Parilungbi Canyon. Now we had to turn all the way back after Kibber and reach Losar taking the usual road passing through village Rangrik located on the right bank of the Spiti just next to Kaza. This however meant an additional 30 km almost.
View towards the windswept Tud region; captured on way to the Ki Gompa. Please visit Flickr for more pics
The attractively perched ancient monastery of Ki
Driving on the true left bank of the river, past the iron-bridge that goes to the opposite bank, we steadily climbed on a neatly tarred narrow road to reach Ki village. The attractively perched ancient monastery of Ki, on a rocky hillock just above the village, was visible from the road itself. Within no time we reached the gompa and I was not surprised to see it thronged by both foreigners and domestic tourists. Both were found to be equally eager to photographically-capture various viewpoints the monastic life of Gelugpa sect had to offer. But the perspective appeared to be making a difference which was apparent.
Agriculture fields of village Ki. Fore more images of the region, please visit bNomadic in Spiti
A chorten in Ki complex overlooking the Spiti Valley; Gyundi Gorge is also visible in the frame
Foreigners observed and captured whatever angle the place offered. Ours posed and asked the monks, without any knowledge of their internal hierarchy, to model either with them or depict the essential elements of their routine life such as prayer wheel, robes, tea cups, performing daily chores, etc. The view from the terrace was splendid including that of the colourful formations in the river basin courtesy the Spiti River meandering through various channels. Observing and without bothering about other visitors, I quickly wrapped up my activities at the monastery and continued with our climb to Kibber village. One of the most important learning centres for Buddhists in India, Ki monastery is house to over 400 monks, rare thangkas and artefacts including olden music instruments.
Monks on terrace of the Gompa. Visit Flickr for more
Terrace-view towards Ratang Gorge. Please visit Flickr Photostream for more pics of the region.
Leaving Ki Monastery complex. Please visit Flickr Photostream for more photographs
The tarred but potholed road to Kibber climbed in a series of easy hairpin bends and loops. Like most valley roads, this one was narrow too and was etched on a vertical face of rock. The village Chicham was visible across the other side of the deep canyon. Claimed to be the “highest inhabited village in the world connected by a motorable road and with a voting ballot”, Kibber (4210m) is a friendly village comprising stone-built-houses, with typical dusty contracted paths, located on a picturesque topography. Although lacking the market-comforts of Kaza, Kibber is any day a better place to put up than Kaza. Situated just at the village entrance, Norling Guesthouse is the place to stay and offers good food as well.
Village Chicham separated by the Parilungbi Canyon. Please visit Flickr Photostream for more pics
I took a few photographs of the landscape from the village entrance, visited the village gompa – Yaktin Chuling – and subsequently asked for ginger tea at the guesthouse. The highlight of the landscape included the majestic Kanamo peak, pasture country, deep gorge, Chicham village, etc. Sipping the hot tea, we began to dissect the claim of Kibber being the “highest inhabited village in the world connected by a motorable road and with a voting ballot”. Having visited Langza the previous day, much higher in altitude as well as connected with a road, half the claim was clearly off beam. Not only Langza but the nearby village Gette (above 4350m) also enjoys road-connectivity. As regard the issue of voting ballot, almost every village in the country today enjoys such a provision at home. As I wrote this blog, situated above 4400m on a ridge connecting Langza and Komic, village Hikkim was officially declared the highest polling station in the state registering a record 81.14 poll percentage in the recently concluded state assembly elections 2012. So wonder why the tourist-agencies still sell this claim!
Village Kibber. Please visit bNomadic in Spiti for more pics of the region
The 5974m holy Kanamo Peak as visible from Kibber village. Please visit Flickr for more pics
The answer possibly lies in the definition of “inhabited”. With over 350 people staying, the village is provided with a school, post office, civil dispensary and some other departments by the government.
Keeping an eye on a bearded vulture gliding high in the sky, I left the spot but ended up rekindling the desire of possessing a 600mm. Soon we were on our way to village Rangrik (3730m) through the same road. Visible from Ki, Rangrik looked like a tiny patch painted green on an uninhabited river-basin walled by high mountains. Circumambulating the long mani wall, as per the tradition, past the bridge across the river, we reached Rangrik in less than an hour.
Landscape at village Ki. Please visit Flickr Photostream for more pics of the region
Landscape at village Ki comprising agriculture fields and unnamed 6000-ers of Gyundi Valley
The weather after Rangrik started revealing its cloudiness, bit by bit, for the rest of the trip. Until now what we came across was the bluest sky that we could imagine. Passing through the settlements of village Sumling (3790m), Sherab Choeling monastery at Morang, Hull (3890m) as well as the Gyundi nala, we climbed to reach Pangmo (3950m) where it started drizzling albeit a light one. This windswept upper valley region Tud of Spiti is the least populated of the four regions – Sham, Bhar, Pin and Tud.
The Gyundi Gorge
Final view towards the Bhar region. Please visit Flickr Photoset for more pics of the region
The landscape comprising Chau Chau Khang Nilda captured from near Morang. Visit Flickr for more pics
Landsape at windswept Pangmo flats. Please visit Lahaul & Spiti Flickr Photoset for more pics
Even though we reached Pangmo by 1400hrs, the drizzle made us rethink about our plans to cross the mighty Kunzum La, later in the evening, where weather can get real nasty at times. A typical Spiti afternoon included headwinds, growing in velocity as the day progressed, and sunrays piercing into the skin. The valley receives very little rain round the year and monsoon spells are mostly dry. We didn’t want to take any risk and planned to call it a day at village Losar still a couple of hours away.
Wind-carved hoodoos a little before Kiato. The SH 30 is also visible in the frame. Visit Flickr for more pics
With dark clouds sluggishly making their way into the dry valley, the fabulous landscape at Pangmo encompassed every shade of nature. Past the Chomo monastery, the road scrolled through poplars, pea and potato fields to enter the yellow-coloured moonscape of hoodoos and ascended over loops to cross the other bank of the river and reach village Kiato (3960m). A little further the village Hansa stretched out in the cultivated fields amidst poplars. The village housed quite a few tin-roofed administrative structures as well as a few shops, dhabas, etc.
Approaching modern Hansa village. Please visit Flickr Photoset for more pics of the region
Landscape above Kiamo village in the Tud region. Please visit Flickr Photoset for more pics
Intermittently descending and ascending to cross a few nallahs, the road to village Losar (4110m) followed the Spiti in an expansive glacial valley. Just before the village, the road crossed the Spiti River to reach its right bank as well as the Dongrimo nala or Suvita Lungpa. The last and final village of the Spiti valley towards the Kunzum La, Losar houses a couple of guesthouses, just a few shops, mud-brick houses painted white, etc. It is even possible to score the Chhang from the guesthouses of this village situated amongst cultivated fields, streams and poplars. Approaching from Hansa, the location of the village made for an extraordinary landscape.
Approaching the uppermost inhabited region of the main Spiti Valley. Visible in the frame are villages of Chichong, Losar and Kholoksar. Please visit Lahaul & Spiti Photoset on Flickr
Without taking into account the government-run rest-houses, the places in the Spiti valley where a night halt could be easily negotiated included Sumdo, Tabo, Shichling, Dankhar, Kaza, Rangrik, Ki, Kibber, Pangmo monastery, Losar, etc.
View and read more on the region at the Lahaul & Spiti Photoset on Flickr
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Climbing up the slope of Bhar pastures
The following is a page entry from On Road through the trans-Himalayas. To read complete travel memoirs and trip report, please visit here.
Chapter 7 of 22
Om Mani Padme Hum
Next morning after the daybreak, loaded with limited supplies that would last us a day, we started the steep climb towards the pastures of Kaza. The seven-kilometre sheer ascent took us to the village Langza (4420m). Although, the village was recently connected with a narrow jeep-track over the steep Shilla Gorge, we preferred taking the harsher approach as the guesthouse-owner had warned us the previous evening about road-repair work currently undertaken by the PWD department which meant the road could be closed for traffic movement. Otherwise the village is now connected with a narrow jeep-track to other neighbouring villages including Gette, Tashigong, Hikkim, Komic, etc.
Landscape towards Kaza; captured from slopes. For more pics of the region, please visit bNomadic in Spiti
First views of the veiled Chau Chau Khang Nalda. For more pics, please visit Flickr Photoset on the region
Huffing and puffing we reached Langza in about four hours to come within a handshake distance with the magnificent Chau Chau Khang Nalda (6303m), literally meaning the mountain-princess on which the sun and moon shine. I had earlier read about its astonishing beauty in the Himalayan Journal edited by Harish Kapadia. The gigantic mountain rises suddenly and appeared to be positioned in the backdrop of the village in the laps of the vast expanse of shrubbery around. Eclipsed by a small cloud, the mountain peak, like a newly married bride, refused to reveal its real face the entire duration that we stayed there.
Village Langza and the CCK Nalda
The statue of meditating Buddha – sitting cross-legged – on a mound above the village overlooking the Zanskar and Great Himalayan Range, as well as the newly-renovated village monastery made the visit to the picture-perfect village even more incredible. As per the Bhaisajyaguru Sutra, this posture, also referred to as Medicine Buddha symbolises the Buddha’s meditation to ward-off any disease inner as well as outer. The preservation of local flora and fauna could rightly be attributed to the teachings of Buddhism. The followers of Buddhism in the trans-Himalayan region imbibe in them the motto Live and let Live.
Medicine Buddha. For more pics of the region, please visit bNomadic in Spiti
Lacking overgrown vegetation, the rounded meadows, a treasure-trove of fossils, made for a perfect camping ground. One needs to carry own tentage armed with supplies to make it safer though home-stays are also popular here. Farther out to pastures are still more sites, each with its own wealth of undersea-fossils and viewpoint. Reminisce of earth’s internal movements, the vast and arid terrain, once a sea, is said to record every geological age in pristine formations. Inching skywards, the Greater Himalayas that enclose Spiti in a crescent, prevent moisture-laden clouds from reaching the region thereby creating an arid and desolate landscape.
Meadows and cultivated fields of Langza. For more pics, please visit Flickr Photostream
From the village Gompa, a 360 degree view encompassed almost every topographical feature of the trans-Himalayan region including deep gorges, the awe-inspiring heights of snow-capped mountains as well as ridges, rippling mountain ranges, expanded river basin in wide open valleys, intriguing rock formations, sloshing glacial rivulets, rich flora as well as fauna and expansive meadows, etc. Extending from Nanga Parbat Peak in the west to Namcha Barwa in the east, the Himalayas are not only known to be widest in this western region but are known to possess most intricate geological mysteries.
Village Langza and the Gompa. For more pics of the region, please visit Flickr Photostream
Known as Western Himalayas in the geographical parlance, the area comprises the region west of the Tons-Yamuna gorge right up till the Indus in Pakistan occupied Kashmir (PoK) as well as north of Shivaliks until the snowy peaks towards the northeast direction, which also marks a natural boundary with Tibet. Travelling northwards, the various mountain subsystems that come under the Western Himalayas are the Shivaliks, The Outer Himalaya Range, The Mid-Himalaya Range, The Great Himalayan Range and The Trans-Himalayan Region. Unlike the ranges in the lower Himalayas, located southwest of the Great Himalayan Range, that rise in succession one after the other, the trans-Himalayan region is largely a featureless expanse of high-altitude desert terrain.
Colourful Spiti riverbed and village Rangrik captured from Bhar slopes
Geographically, the trans-Himalayan region lies northward of the Great Himalayan Range, which after reaching its crescendo drop away forming several ranges as well as ridges running parallel to itself. With elevation ranging from 4500-7500 m, the significant ranges of this region are christened as Zanskar, Ladakh and Karakoram, etc. The topography is sliced into numerous valleys by one of the most prominent river-systems including the Indus, the Spiti, the Sutlej and the Chenab (Chandrabhaga), etc. Culturally, the regions are linked by a common thread including architecture, religion, practices, food, etc. with minor variations related to language differing with valley to valley.
View towards the Tud region
Submitting to the stubborn massif that refused to reveal itself, we took a few photographs and left the dreamland facing strong headwinds downhill. On the way I captured myriad perspectives the landscape had to offer including that of the Kanamo Peak (5964m). With a limited zoom, photographing the shy birds, up there, was always a problem. We were back in town, before the light faded, where a sumptuous feast awaited us at the guesthouse.
Captured while descending Bhar slopes. For more images, please visit bNomadic in Spiti
View and read more on the region at the Flickr Photostream of bNomadic
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Bumping into a rare four-legged wild creature
The following is a page entry from On Road through the trans-Himalayas. To read complete travel memoirs and trip report, please visit here.
Colourful chortens at Tabo
Chapter 6 of 22
Afterward, the road climbed progressively and crossed village Nadang, Poh to reach village Shichling at 3460m where the valley opened itself up again from the gorge. At Poh we came across a group of local women who asked us to give lift to a lady and drop her at Kaza. We obviously had to agree. The limited number of state transport buses plying on the road, on such a terrain, seldom show up on time. Getting a local taxi is not always a possibility either. The lady turned out to be a professor of biology who taught at a local college in village Hansa. On the way, she gave us some interesting lowdown about local customs, traditions, festivals and treks.
View towards Tabo. For more photographs of the region, please visit bNomadic in Spiti
Landscape ahead; towards Needang. Visit bNomadic’s Flickr Photostream for more pics of the region
Cultivated fields of Poh in the Sham region
On a stretch after Nadang, taking notice of falling stones on the road we stopped and parked the car at a safer location. I walked up to the site to determine the cause and scale of the minute-looking live slide. Lo and behold! I had spotted a rare four-legged wild creature going up the mountainside! I immediately took a few photographs and spotted another guy few feet away. It was a Himalayan Blue Sheep couple.
Manerang North. Please visit bNomadic in Spiti for more pics of the region
A narrow portion of Spiti Valley ahead. For more pics, visit bNomadic on Flickr
A Bharal couple climbing up the slopes of Zaskar Range. More pics on Flickr
The satisfaction of having captured a rare wild animal disappeared the very next moment when I realised my camera was fitted with a wide-angle lens. The impatient movement in my body to procure the telephoto-lens lying in the car frightened the animal. I knew my lucky moment was over and within no time the Bharals left the spot. I greatly lamented the loss but couldn’t do much.
A close-up of Himalayan Blue Sheep, locally called Bharal, Naur, Sna.
Wind-eroded formations in a narrower section of the Spiti Valley ahead. More on Flickr
Looking back; view towards Nadang. More pics on bNomadic in Spiti
Approaching the widest section of the Spiti Valley. More pics at Flickr
Majestic Spiti. For more photographs of the region, please visit bNomadic on Flickr
Road through village Shichling. For more pics, please visit bNomadic in Spiti
Before agreeing to give the young lady a lift, we had made our intentions clear with respect to a visit at Dankhar monastery. The much-revered Dankhar monastery is located at a distance of about 8 km from the main road. The road after the turn-off at Shichling was steep but freshly tarred owing to the under-construction Helipad near the Gompa. Perched atop the razor-edged rocky pinnacles and alkaline deposits hoodoos above the terraced fields of barley and peas, the Gompa is visible from the main road below and makes for dramatic frame. It is said that in ancient times, faced with raiders, Spitians would hide in these overhangs staving them off by dropping stones from the top. Once the official capital of Spiti, the oldest building in the compound – Nono’s palace, now in ruins – dates back to seventh century.
Dhankar Monastery is approximately 300 m higher in altitude than the Spiti at Shichling
The ancient complex is built on a high bluff overlooking the Pindomor
“The Cold Fort” Dankhar
Literally meaning a fort on a cliff, Dhankar was the capital of Spiti Kingdom in the 17th century
The views from the old monastery’s terrace are commanding and the charms include snow-capped Manerang massif over the gorge towards Tabo, confluence of the Pin, Spiti and Lingti Rivers, Pin valley and the open valley towards Kaza. Next to the recently-built monastery is a small restaurant selling chai and simple meals. Another lure, the Dankhar Lake is situated at a distance of about four km from the monastery. Although both time and mind allowed trekking up the trail to reach the lake but for the commitment made to the young professor to make her reach Kaza on time.
View towards Shichling from the terrace of one of the cells of the monastery. More pics on Flickr
Wind-eroded hoodoos
The confluence of Pin and Spiti Rivers; the Lingti is not visible in the frame. More at Flickr
Next, we crossed a narrow gateway sliced through the hoodoos to reach the other side of the mountain where the narrow-cum-bumpy-cum-dusty jeep-track descended to join the main highway to Kaza. The recently carved jeep-track is seldom used and most vehicles ply on the tarred road via Shichling. We still insisted driving on the same for two reasons – save some precious time as well as capture both the monastery and Manerang peak in a single frame though the typical Spitian dust did not allow much photography on the descent.
Towards Attargu; The Lingti gorge, visible immediately ahead, separates the Bhar and Sham regions of the Spiti Valley. More photographs at Flickr
Colourful vistas of Spiti. For more photographs of the region, please visit Flickr
The Manerang massif and Dankhar bluff. This and more at bNomadic in Spiti
Engrossed in the conversation, we soon reached Kaza. The mesmerising confluence of three rivers looked even more beautiful against the backdrop of the Zanskar-valley-like mountains. I was always interested in exploring the vistas offered by the Pin valley and even planned to drive up to the village Mudh this time but for the condition of the roads, ravaged by the recent flash floods. Hardly a few weeks before, the unwarranted glacial melt had caused havoc in the entire Pin valley washing off several bridges and settlements as well as submerging entire road-length. The lady professor also advised us not to venture into the area at this stage. The majestic view of snow-capped peaks from village Attargu and groves of seabuckthorn, mostly located on the island formed at the confluence – Pindomor, were among other attractions on the way. Having dropped the professor at the entrance to Kaza, we headed straight to the only fuel pump in the area and got the tank full. We checked into a private guest house and after refreshing ourselves quickly headed straight to the newly built Kaza monastery.
Intriguingly eroded mountain-slopes in the Bhar region. This and more at bNomadic in Spiti
Natural formations in the Middle Land. More photographs on Flickr
Serene expanse of upland-terrain in the Bhar region. More pics at bNomadic in Spiti
Welcome to Kaza, the administrative headquarters of the Spiti Valley. More pics at Flickr
The remaining part of the day was spent with monks in the monastery, walking around the town as well as the market. Surrounded by high-rise mountain-faces by the left bank of snaking Spiti River, at 3680m the tin-roofed town of Kaza could be divided in two comprising the old settlement area or old Kaza and new Kaza housing government offices, market, rest-houses, etc. Interlaid with narrow dusty streets and fast-mushrooming guesthouses, the town is fast-expanding into a vacationer-destination. Being headquarter of the Spiti valley, recognised as a tribal area, it enjoys certain special provisions and relaxations from the Government of India.
The newly built colourful Monastery at Kaza. The monastery was inaugurated by His Holiness the Dalai Lama in July 2009. More pics at Flickr Photostream
The Shakyamuni Buddha
An ornate statue of the great translator and Mahaguru Rinchen Zangpo
Chortens lined outside the Monastery
To foreigners coming from Kunzum side, Kaza is the place to get your Inner Line Permit. Although the market lacks the amenities of a town, Kaza can be used as an excellent base to explore the village pastures located higher up the mountainsides. We aimed to do the same next morning. An additional day at Kaza also offered us an opportune spell to do the laundry.
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Brush with The Malling
The following is a page entry from On Road through the trans-Himalayas. To read complete travel memoirs and trip report, please visit here.
Chapter 5 of 22
Incredible India
The terraced fields of Nako. For more pics of the region, please visit bNomadic in Kinnaur
At 3800m, a few kilometre after Nako is the most notorious and terrific section of the road popularly known as Maling Slide. The infamous Maling nallah roaring on a terrain, which is entirely unstable, aggravates the problem. Till about a few years ago, the main road used to run along the left bank of Spiti river and crossing this slide could consume up to couple of hours. The road had been diverted up the mountain only recently. Although, the section is still prone to blockages, a hurried clamber ordinarily takes up only ten minutes. The slide area begins just after a temple near which the road labourers are stationed to clear the area in the event of a landslide.
Approaching the infamous Maling section. Notice the narrow motorway as well as a small Hindu shrine. For more pics, please visit Flickr Photostream of bNomadic
Notice the permanently stationed heavy machine on the narrow road. The slide is notorious for going live every 24 hrs (well, almost)
We paid our homage to the mountain Gods after clearing safe the disreputable section of the road. Believe me you; it was this section of the road, the notoriety of which discouraged us from visiting Spiti, in a similar vehicle, earlier this year. Misconceptions mostly!
A Buddhist shrine to ward off the evil spirits at the infamous Malling Slide.
The next few kilometres in the barren as well as narrow Spiti Valley offered little landscape-photography opportunities. A couple of kilometre after the Maling crossing, the now-tarred road descended steadily over a buttery-yellow alkaline ridge in a series of switchbacks to reach village Chango (3000m).
The Hangarang region, in the Spiti Valley, of Kinnaur. The road through the Maling section is also visible in the frame. For more pics, please visit bNomadic in Kinnaur on Flickr
A live slide in the Spiti Valley
The rippling mountain formations in the Spiti Valley. The green patches belong to the village Chango and Shialkar. For more pics, please visit Flickr Photostream of bNomadic
The “Moonscape” of Kinnaur. For more pics, please visit Flickr
Approaching Chango.
Up a mountain-face at Chango. For more pics, please visit bNomadic on Flickr
Comprising a few dhabas, guest houses, the village itself is a couple of kilometre up the main road. A green settlement surrounded by apple, plum, apricot, willow and poplars, the village houses an old Gompa as well. Just before reaching Chango, look for meditation caves located up the mountain walls.
Somewhat wider section of Spiti Valley in Kinnaur. For more pics, please visit Flickr
The road is on the left bank of the Spiti River. For more pics, please visit bNomadic on Flickr
The barren highland. For more photographs of the region, please visit bNomadic on Flickr
Village Shialkar comes into view
Over the next few kilometres, the levelled but bumpy road snaked to cross over to the opposite bank of Spiti and reached village Shialkar (3030m). A few meditation caves could be spotted here as well up the rock face of the mountainside. The bumpy as well as dusty road after Shialkar looks to level the Spiti River to reach Sumdo village and enter the Sham region of Spiti valley.
Welcome to Shialkar
The terrain ahead. For more pics of the region, please visit bNomadic in Kinnaur
At 3100m, Sumdo is the administrative entrance to the Lahaul & Spiti district. All travellers are required to again prove their credentials at the Police check post located right after the bridge by the confluence of Spiti and Parechu River. Foreigners will have to produce the Inner Line Permit they were carrying.
The Parechu river “re-entering” Indian territory from Tibet
The Spiti River. The confluence of Parechu and Spiti rivers marks the administrative boundary of Spiti.
Responsible for flooding the entire Sutlej valley as well as the terminal of Spiti valley in 2005, the truant Parechu River originates from Parang La, 15 km north of Kibber, flows east to enter Tibet and rounds back to India to join Spiti at Sumdo. The river had washed away several bridges and villages in 2005. Back then, the cause, a possible dam burst on the river in Tibet lead to bitterness between the relations of India and China.
The Parechu and the narrow motorway towards Kaurik
The narrow Spiti valley and the terrain ahead
From Sumdo there is a diversion, off the main road, leading to village Kaurik, now an abandoned hamlet, at the border. Ahead the state highway 30 briefly climbs crossing the Gue Nallah Bridge as well as a jeep-road, leading up the Gue village, to reach village Hurling (3150m), settlement comprising relocated people from Kaurik.
The Gue stream and the narrow jeep-road to the village Gue
The narrow Spiti Gorge in the Sham region of Spiti
Starting at Sumdo and ending at Batal in Lahaul valley, the total length of the SH30 is 180km. Blasted out from the rock face with steep drops down the river in a narrow valley, the current bad section of the road reminded of the C-shaped Roghi cliffs. The worst was over now. There was a small Maa Durga shrine dedicated to those who lost their lives constructing this section of the road.
The road-condition also improves. State Highway 30. For more pics, please visit Flickr
Green patch of village Hurling. For more pics of the region, please visit bNomadic in Spiti
The village Hurling comprises relocated residents of Kaurik. For more pics, bNomadic on Flickr
Viewpoint captured from village CHANDIGARH in the Spiti Valley. For more pics, please visit Flickr
Bridge on the river Spiti at Sumra. For more pics of the region, please visit bNomadic in Spiti
Village Sumra and the stream descending from Manerang region. For more pics, Flickr
Poplars in a wider section of the Sham region of Spiti. More pics of the region at Flickr
Village Lari in sight. More pics of the region at bNomadic in Spiti
After this stretch, the valley starts to open up and the monstrous Spiti now appear to calm down. A typical landscape would include occasional green patches surrounding a village forming a sort of oases, rock, boulders, water and waterfalls showering the road, etc. The road gradually gains height to reach Tabo (3300m) passing through village Chandigarh, Sumra on the right bank and Lari.
Wide open Spiti Valley in the Sham region. More pics of the region at Flickr
Nature’s own Open Air Theatre. More pics of the region at bNomadic in Spiti
Tabo within reach. More pics at Flickr
Obviously Tabo, the modest looking one of the key olden Buddhist sites in the world, was to be the main focus area for the day. Set in the fields, the ancient Gompa, a world heritage site declared by UNESCO, is believed to be founded by Rinchen Zangpo, the great translator, in 996 AD. Its soft-mud appearance matches with the barren landscape of the Spiti valley.
The ceremonial Welcome Gate to the ancient Tabo monastery complex
The natural-looking meditation caves for the monks on the mountain-face. For more pics, please visit Flickr
Inside a cell. Butter lamps being readied for the evening Pooja
Tabo is the monastery where his Holiness The Dalai Lama has chosen to retire.
The ancient as well as the Kalachakra Chorten (outside the complex walls)
Inside the complex. The monastery has multiple house-like structures of sand and clay. Visit Flickr
What often puzzles the historians is the possible reason behind its preservation for so long. The widely accepted view is because of its location. Unlike most other monasteries in the Spiti valley which are perched high above the cliffs or mountain tops, this one is plainly set among vast fields located by the left bank of the river. Its ordinary exterior saved it from getting noticed by 18th century raiders including the Sikhs and Dogras. Marked by a ceremonial gateway next to the main road peppered by willows and poplars on both side, Tabo is the monastery where his Holiness Dalai Lama has chosen to retire.
Om Mani Padme Hum
Tabo Monastery Complex
The monastery has multiple house-like structures made of sand and clay. Although, the various temples inside the monastery complex were closed, I spent a couple of hours roaming in and around framing every possible clue that helped distinguish its current life vis-à-vis the tradition. The natural-looking meditation caves for the monks could also be spotted on the slope of the mountainside from the gompa itself.
Set in the fields surrounded by Poplars, the ancient Gompa is also a world heritage site declared by the UNESCO. For more pics of the region, please visit bNomadic in Spiti
Tabo offers plenty of accommodation as well as food options and is also a good place to refill the supplies for the remaining trip. We didn’t hesitate in that and ordered local-thalis for ourselves from a dhaba located at the entrance to the gompa. Priced at Rs 70, the thali included hygienically cooked boiled rice, rajma, dal and pumpkin subzi. The market also housed a few German bakeries. By now well established in Manali, Kasol and Leh, a typical German bakery comprises a counter offering doughnuts, croissants, breads and a few varieties of pastries. No one can really trace the origin of this fad and a majority of such eateries are managed by local people only. At tea, we both ordered a veg sandwich. Well, it was just okay! The remaining part of the day was well spent in strolling around the area and looking for opportunities to photograph any wildlife particularly birds.
Mane Stones at Tabo. For more pics of the region, please visit Flickr Photostream on bNomadic
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