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Shimla Diary; The misty hillside of Kotgarh
A landscape at Kotgarh captured later by Sarabjit Lehal
My most recent trip to Kotgarh Valley came as a sweet surprise and just as the previous one to the region, was a totally unplanned one. The unavailability of a suitable accommodation at Narkanda, while on a family-trip last monsoon, saw us at the fittingly located PWD Rest House at Kotgarh.
As we approached Narkanda from the capital hillside of Shimla, the weather turned overcast and instantly transported us to the cooler climes of Himalayas from the sweltering heat of the plains. The Valley of Kotgarh, popularly known as the valley of Red and Golden Apples lies at a comfortable drive of 30 minutes (16 km) from Narkanda. The road, part of the original Hindustan – Tibet highway, descends through a dense forest cover of deodars, pines, spruce and oaks.
It had rained here in the morning. Even though small streams were invisible to the eye, hidden secretively behind thick screens of ferns and vegetation around, the sweet smell of mist and the addictive the sound of water could be felt and heard almost everywhere. The trees stood tall hugging the motorway tightly and in some stretches the filtering light of the sun, through the monsoon mist, struggled hard to make it presence felt.
A misty view of the Kotgarh Valley on the left bank of Satluj. More pics at Flickr Photostream
In its heyday, due to its comfortable-cum-strategic location on the erstwhile trade-route, Kotgarh was no less popular than Shimla. By the time, in 1864, Shimla was declared the capital of British India, Kotgarh had already acquired an infrastructure, to support its settlement, which most other villages of the entire Himalayan region still have not been able to. Whereas Shimla evolved to become the popular summer retreat and ultimately the capital of British India, Kotgarh still has been able to almost retain its alluring charm.
A light drizzle welcomed our arrival at the settlement. Crossing the now-renovated olden hospital on our way, we reached the RH compound located a little above the main market. The gradient and width of the latter part of the road that descended very steeply past the hospital to reach the main market was much in its original form. We chose to spend the remainder of the day indoors and were left with no option but to savour the monsoon mountainscape through the windowpane itself.
“Room with a View“. Please visit Flickr Photostream for more pics of the region
The rounded mountains edged before us as far as the eyes could see, endless and serene, until they faded into the insipid blues on the horizon. Out of the window, the sweet-smelling air, of earth and wet leaves, and the view that emerged in between stretches offered by the casual weather was sharp and vivid. Down below, the mighty Satluj was preparing to enter the Kullu region after sweeping clean the dust and debris right from its origin in the central trans-Himalayan region. Towards my left stood the lush green patch of dense deodars towering above infant clouds and mist.
The lush green patch of dense deodars towering above infant clouds and mist. More pics at Flickr Photoset
For the next couple of days, we were basically playing hide and seek with the pouring weather. But we were happy at that as long as the strongly brewed tea supplies from the caretaker didn’t end. Gracefully, his proxy attendant was experienced and full of information on the region. In between the brief spell of showers, we would go and visit the market, the popular landmarks or even pluck near-ripened apples from the orchard of the RH compound. The windowpane of the room presented a wider view than possible elsewhere nearby. The mountainscape of this significant region made it one of the most beautiful valleys of the region and for us an idyllic holiday.
The now renovated olden hospital of Kotgarh. More images from the region at Flickr Photoset
As claimed, the valley is home to one of the oldest surviving plantations of deodars. Planted as far back as in 1881, the dense green cover is among the few remaining forest covers in the state. The middle to lower reaches of the mountainside had all been converted into lush apple orchards. The constructions within the settlement – a few built in the traditional style using wood and with slanting slate roofs while some equipped with most modern amenities – provided a contemporary character to the hillside.
Built in 1872, the St Mary Church is one of the oldest in the region and reflect on the early missionary work in the state. Please visit Flickr Photostream for more pics of the region.
Inside the Church. Please visit Flickr Photoset for more images of the region
The newly built building of the Gorton Mission School. Built as far back as in 1843, the school is still claimed to be the oldest school in Asia. More images from the region at Flickr Photoset
An earlier building of the school, now part of the compound. More images at Flickr
Even though located on the olden Hindustan – Tibet route, the settlement of Kotgarh have chosen to remain unfazed by the fast changing landscape of its touristy neighbourhoods of Narkanda, Rampur or even its sidearm, the Thanadhar ridge. Barring the landscape, the cultural aspects of the society have reshaped themselves to match the “modern” wave prevalent elsewhere in the state. Mercifully, the periodic human sacrifices are no longer held. The annual Doum Fair, held traditionally, too has lost its charm. Yet, owing to the richness of its fine apple crop, the valley is among the most economically prosperous regions of the state of Himachal Pradesh.
Kotgarh also happened to be a brief activity area of Sadhu Sunder Singh, though, I failed in my attempts to locate the original cave where he is said to have meditated. Before the British took over the control of the administration of Kotgarh to retain it as a military outpost-cum-trading centre, it was said to be ruled by the Gurkhas. The ancient but appealing ligneous St Mary’s Church, built in 1873, along with its old graveyard, the Gorton Mission School and a small residential complex that survive today hold a silent testimony to the days gone by. Built as far back as in 1843, the Gorton Mission School is still claimed to be the oldest school in Asia. Be it Murray’s journal, the Handbook of Punjab, or Thomson’s Western Himalayas and Tibet, much of the landmarks continue to remain the same. It was in Kotgarh where the renowned geographer, adventurer as well as a naturalist, Capt Gerard chose to have his home built.
Evening landscape; the valley is among the most economically prosperous regions of the state. More at Flickr
Average Altitude: 1950 m
Best time to visit: Throughout the year; particularly after monsoons
Travel Lure: Sylvan charms
Accommodation: Limited to a few cottages
Kullu Diary; The fading woods of Solang
The ensuing thoughts are based on my visit to the popular destination Solang late in the spring last year. Having visited Manali on numerous occasions serving varied purposes, it was only then when the long cherished wish to experience its popular touristy sidearm – Solang Valley – materialised. Although, I have rarely been able to develop the curiosity necessary to visit a site jammed by tourists, Solang happened to be on the list because of the unparalleled landscape it offers.
The Pirpanjal Range as observed from a point near Solang. More from the region at Flickr
The cloud-free weather window at this season of the year vibrantly splattered the scenery with haze-free sunshine to make it enchanting beyond description. The mountain-sides were clothed with rhododendron – white, mauve, and scarlet, standing out against grey rocks outlined by shining snowy heights under a sky of intense blueness. The dreamy Himalayan-scenery had every natural element at its colourful best.
The valley of Solang is located at a distance of 3 km from Palchan and 8 km from the tourist centre point of Manali. The Solang nala in a swift current courses between mountains clad in scattered deodar patches, from the midst of which jut out vast headlands of perpendicular rock; and a couple of miles above Palchan, a series or similar gigantic cliffs rise up sheer from the river and line its course for a considerable distance.
Approached through a widened road past remaining fragments of beautiful glades of olden pines and horse-chestnuts, the centre point of the valley comes at last into view, bowered with green patches on either shore, against the indescribable backdrop of the marvellous heights of the snowy Pirpanjal Range. The landscape in the Solang Valley was in my opinion unsurpassable and certainly unmatched by anything in the rest of the region.
The snowy heights of Pirpanjal and the developing settlement at Solang. More at Flickr Photoset
No sooner than I reached the tourist-activity centre of the valley, my thoughts and hope to experience the beauty of “adventurous” Solang seemed to fade away. It was still spring, technically an off-season from tourist-traffic point of view, and even though the area was far from being overcrowded, the state of affairs at the site were indeed pathetic.
Thronged madly by Manali-bound tourists, honeymooners and party animals alike, the site was claimed by stall-sellers, activity guides, touts, open-air restaurants, dubious cafes often supplying stale foodies at over-priced rates. As I was mobbed by desperate parasail guides, I deliberated over the change in the outlook of the region since 1990. The upsurge in the tourism was partly led by the political problems in erstwhile more popular Kashmir. Many multi-storeyed concrete hotels had been constructed that would have been more suitable to Delhi or Mumbai than to the Himalayan foothills.
Funfair themed park had been built where once stood wide expanse of dense deodar forests, concrete shopping complexes had occupied the traditional bazaars and video-gaming arcades had mushroomed to accommodate the needs of tourists unable to cope with the serenity of the mountains. Traffic jamming was now a routine occurrence; the constant blaring of horns and thump of music a loud reminder of our growing frustrations of life.
The activity site of Solang is popular with tourists round the year particularly in winters and summers.
The activity site of Solang is popular with tourists round the year particularly in winters and summers. The few hundred metres of immediate meadowland is used for parasailing, hiking, horse-riding and zorbing. In winters the same portion is thronged by skiers and snow-boarders. What’s more, a ski-lift has now been installed to facilitate the “adventures”. Leave aside the smoke gushing and diesel-fuming scooters, favourite with Machos of the valley and among the tourists, the desperate adventure-tour companies, operators as well as agents equally dot the scene throughout the day.
Grabbing a machine-pissed coffee, I headed towards the take-off point of tandem-parasailors, positioned a few hundred metres away towards the ridge. The then British Col CG Bruce, a Himalayan veteran-cum-hunter was immensely impressed by the views of the Solang Valley back in those times. “As for Kullu, I simply yearned to travel there. It seemed to contain all I wanted – magnificent forests which I love, fruit, flowers, rivers, picturesque scenery, interesting people and of course mountains. I had also heard of its quaint and curious Gods. I always hoped to hunt red bears and even Ibexes at Solang”. During those days, Solang Valley used to be the favourite roaming grounds for Red Bear which required license from the administration to shoot. The Black Bear, being more common, did not require any such formalities.
The main slide of the activity centre at Solang. More pics from the region at Flickr Photoset
Despite the ever-increasing flow of tourists near the activity centre, the existence of cooler and sylvan environs in its higher purlieus could not be denied. And that’s where the magical charm flourished. In its vicinity, one may still be able to find an alpine-like feel. The head of the Beas Valley is known as Beas Kund which only means the source of the Beas. The popular hike to the Kund takes about 8 hrs from Solang main parking. The peak views are dominated by Hanuman Tibba (5928m), Ladakhi Peak (5342m), Manali Peak (5669m), Muker Beh (6069m), Shikar Beh (6200m), Shiti Dhar (5294m), Gondla and Goh Kincha (5153m).
I would, however, recommend staying in the chalet-styled guest-houses located downstream on way to Manali. Far in the distance, the deodar-rich scenery exceeded in magnificence anything that can be found elsewhere in mainstream Kullu region.
Landscape captured downstream. For more pics from the region, please visit Flickr Photoset
Average Altitude: 2300m
Best time to visit: Throughout the year; Summers and Winters in particular
Travel Lure: Himalayan views, Picnic adventures
Accommodation: Always in plenty
Almora Diary; Into the forests of Jhandidhar
Trishul and Mrigthuni from the Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary. More pics at Flickr Photoset
As I begin to pour my thoughts down concerning a brief holiday-stopover at the notable forests of Jhandidhar, I am nearly getting a feeling that I might be doing injustice to the beauty and inimitability associated with this location. As a travel blogger, I have always felt that writing about experiences after the visits have long been concluded is a grave error one would commit and only the portrayal churned out by the relative thought-process provides the soul to the travel-memoirs. And yet, this time with the aid of travel-notes of my first excursion to Binsar, I am attempting to recreate my experience about a break which dates back to the summers of 2011.
Popularly known as Binsar, the forest of Jhandidhar derives its name from the ancient temple of Veeneshwar (or Bineshwar) located within the sanctuary. Spread in the heart of Kumaon at altitude varying from 1500 to 2500 m, Binsar is about 30 km on the Almora-Jageshwar road (SH37) from the main township of Almora. The smooth motorway from Almora makes its way through the forests of Jhandidhar to reach the interpretation centre-cum-entrance gate of the sanctuary. The notice boards at the interpretation centre clearly states the general obligations of a visitor with respect to the biodiversity inside the sanctuary. The entry ticket, obtainable only during the daytime, is valid for up to three days.
“Come and Get Lost”!! More pics from the Kumaon region at Flickr Photoset
Jhandidhar’s popularity shot up when during the days of British Raj, Binsar was declared to be the administrative centre of Almora. As many as six estates still exist within the confines of the sanctuary and several other colonial bungalows could still be spotted in its vicinity. The sprawling estates have played host to a number of politicians and celebrities including the likes of Henry Ramsay, Vijaylaxmi Pandit, Jawahar Lal Nehru, Sardar Ballabh Bhai Patel, Tiziano Terzani and Uday Shankar, etc. Thanks to the efforts of environmentalists especially the Goralkot estate owner, the ridge and its forest wealth was saved from the clutches of commercialisation when it was notified as a sanctuary by the then UP government. Today, the forests of Jhandidhar are among the few remaining densely wooded green patch in the Himalayan state of Uttarakhand. Mercifully, Binsar continues to harbour one of the few remaining natural temperate broadleaved forests in middle Himalaya.
The name Binsar originates from the ancient temple of Lord Shiva, Bineshwar Mahadev, situated in the middle of the sanctuary. More pics from the region at Flickr Photoset
As elsewhere, I had not made any prior arrangements to spend the night inside the sanctuary. There is no dearth of accommodation around the sanctuary but inside it is very limited. Located at a distance of 13 km from the main gate, the KMVN tourist rest house is positioned just perfectly on a ridge top. To keep myself away from the touristy humdrum, I was inclined towards staying at the Forest Rest House located a couple of km further. The supply of electricity inside the sanctuary is very limited and both properties operate on solar energy. Wooden floored, the FRH was still in its original state.
As the light fades, tourists inside the sanctuary throng the FRH compound to admire the sunset
Interiors of the FRH still retain much of its original charm. More from the region at Flickr
The then caretaker of the FRH, Sh Bache Singh Bisht readily agreed to double up as a guide through the forest. Having gobbled up a cup of hot ginger tea, we headed into the denseness of the forest. It is claimed to be the only wildlife sanctuary in the country where walking is permitted on the 62km of designated paths. Depending on the interest of the visitor, there are many identified trek routes within the jungle. The most popular of the lot is the one to the ridge top marked as Zero Point. The remainder of the trek options are for those who intend to observe the village life. There are as many as five villages inside the sanctuary limits. However, venturing into the forest after sunset is strictly prohibited.
The pathway to the Zero Point atop a ridge inside the sanctuary. More from the region at Flickr
The watch-hut named Zero Point atop the ridge. More images from the region at Flickr Photoset
Commanding an uninterrupted panoramic view of the Great Himalayan Range from Yamunotri in the west to Nepal’s Mt Nampa towards the eastern horizon, the vantage point atop the ridge is popularly christened as the Zero Point (2410m). The watch hut at the ridge top is situated roughly at a distance of about two km from both the KMVN facility and the secluded FRH. Impregnated with moisture, the hazy greyish hue in the sky awaiting the grand arrival of monsoon partially obstructed our view towards the snowy heights. Nevertheless, the Goddess deity of Garhwal as well as Kumaon, Mt Nanda Devi was still noticeable above the clouds. It was my first affair with the grand view of Himalaya. The snowy curtain had induced Himalayan addiction into my soul. And as they say once the Himalayas are in your blood, there can be no escape.
A portion of the Great Himalayan Panorama captured from the Zero Point. L to R: Nanda Ghunti to Dangthal in the monsoon-rich skies. More from the region at Flickr Photoset
Binsar is a hiker’s paradise. Pathways are accessible for most part of the year. One may not find habitation for hours at end, therefore, it is advisable to carry supplies along
Not only the magnificence of Himalayan views but the rich flora and fauna along with the folklores ranging from the mythological Saptrishis to the British administrators makes Binsar an idyllic sojourn halt. The relatively unspoilt wilderness is alarmed only by the noises of animals or birds whereas the centuries old oaks testify the changing perspectives. Much before the British moved in, Binsar was the summer capital of Chand Rajas. However, a little survives from its undoubted ancient past except for the thirteenth century temple complex dedicated to Shiva and Parvati.
A large quantity of watering holes, called Naulas, are found in this water retaining Oak forest
Banj and Maaru Oak trees, useful medicinally, are found in the upper reaches of Binsar.
Divinely worshipped, Deodars are considered to be a reliable building material. As a matter of fact, The British had thoroughly exploited Deodar forests throughout the Himalaya.
The forest wealth of Binsar comprises Himalayan Oaks, Chir Pine, Deodars, Rhododendrons, etc. apart from noteworthy birdlife and usual wildlife. I was particularly enamoured by my first sighting of a flying squirrel as it jumped in the thick of moss-covered dense woods. The sanctuary pamphlet I was carrying claimed that Binsar is home to leopards, barking deer, wild boars, monkeys, jackals, red fox and porcupines, etc. Housing over 150 bird species, it is considered to be an absolute paradise for birdwatchers. The popular ones include flycatchers, khaleej pheasant, cuckoo, great barbet, tits, nuthatches, parakeets, thrushes, koklas, golden eagle and himalayan woodpecker, etc.
While morning hours see a buzz at the Zero Point, daytime is generally popular for bird-watching as well as observing village life. As the light starts fading, residents in the confines of the sanctuary throng the FRH compound to admire the setting sun.
The century old FRH is one of the popular Sunset viewpoints inside the sanctuary
In these environmentally testing times, Binsar continues to be one of the last remaining fortresses of well-preserved blooming nature. Unlike most other reserves, the forest sanctuary of Binsar is open throughout the year and offers distinct flavours in all four seasons ranging from the red rhododendron to energetic flame of the forests in spring, from the misty monsoons to the unparalleled vibrant views of autumn and snows in winter.
पहाड़ की चेलीले, पहाड़ की बौरी ले, कभे नी खाया दि रोटा सुखले। हाय हाय ले काटा दुखले दिन ले, पहाड़ की चेलीले, पहाड़ की बौरी ले। More images from the region at Flickr Photoset
Average Altitude: 2200m
Best time to visit: Throughout the year; autumn in particular
Travel Lure: Himalayan views, Wildlife rich forests
Accommodation: Always confirm in advance
Doon Valley Diary; The Rock Edict of Ashoka at Kalsi
A replica of Ashoka Pillars guarding the entrance (twitter: @satravell is now @gobnomadic)
As we were heading to Chakrata in the spring of 2013, an Information Board by the highway, near Herbertpur, announced the location of an Asokan Rock Edict at Kalsi still a few kilometres ahead. Honestly speaking, none of us had any idea that the approach to the historical site was on this particular stretch of the highway in the Vale of Doreen. Even the guidebook we used to rely upon failed in its purpose to provide any useful information about the site. The next thing I knew we were at the spot looking for clues to be captured.
The entrance-lane to the site lies towards the right side at the end of the main market of Kalsi town. Located near the confluence of Yamuna and Tons, Kalsi is about 50 km from Dehradun on the road to Chakrata via Herbertpur. The military barricade on the road to Chakrata is positioned just ahead of the market of Kalsi after which foreigners are required to furnish a permission from the Home Ministry to venture beyond.
The paved entrance to the site at Kalsi
The Great Mauryan Emperor Ashoka (273 – 232 BC) got his fourteenth edict inscribed on a rock at Kalsi. However, the site was brought to light by John Forest in 1860. Considered to be one of the most important monuments in the field of Indian epigraphy, the rock edict is looked after by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). Representing the times when Ashoka had vowed himself to be a Buddhist, after having conquered a substantial chunk of the globe, the 10 x 8 ft-rock edict is identified in Prakrit language and Brahmi script.
The fourteenth Rock Edict of Ashoka
Having embraced Buddhism, Ashoka is known to have got 14 rocks inscribed, spread across his empire, with a unique religious message on each. The edicts reflect Ashoka’s humane approach towards his administration and his commitment to non-violence as well as abandonment of warfare. The inscriptions are believed to be a testimony to the fact that what Ashoka preached also practiced.
The small garden around the dome appeared to be a reasonable place to picnic. The landscape from the site presented with a rich frame comprising fertile fields spread on successive ledges till the bank of Yamuna against the backdrop of shallow hills. I wondered what the scene would have been back in the Ashokan times.
In its heyday, the region surely must have been the best of tarai forests full of wildlife. Even as recently as the late 1940s, the valley of Jungle Princess Doreen, Dehradun was full of tigers and other big cats. On a sadder note, the current state of wildlife appears to be very gloomy despite the presence of two national parks – Rajaji National Park and Kalesar National Park – in the vicinity of Dehra Valley. Nevertheless, the vale continues to be popular with birding enthusiasts.
This building, the dome, over the Rock Edict was constructed by the Government of the United Provinces in March 1912 to protect the inscription
Kalsi can be visited round the year albeit if you are okay with the idea of spending a hot summer afternoon at an average altitude of 750 m. Apart from a lone FRH at Kalsi, the nearest appreciable accommodation options are at Dakpathar (just four km) or Asan barrage.
Book Talk: Maharaja in Denims, a tale of Love, Intrigue and Passion
Appositely titled, “Maharaja in Denims”, the latest story by Khushwant Singh intriguingly combines passionate love, history, tragedy as well as the local culture of Chandigarh, author’s worktown.
In his first fictitious narrative spanning multiple time zones and generations, the author relates with various aspects of Punjab, including its formation, as well as Punjabi families particularly the farming community and successfully creates flashes of university life of Chandigarh.
Justifiably priced at Rs 250, the book dramatically creates interest in its reader towards the crucial events that shaped the present day Punjab. Blended well with the modern fiction, in less than 200 pages, the book emerges to be a light but thoughtful dose of antiquity of Sikhism and Punjab. Starting with the aura and greatness of Ranjit Singh, the book touches upon Captain WG Osborne’s fascinating account of Ranjit Singh, his harem and his love for women (no womaniser). Moving ahead, the book reflects on the aftereffects of the partition and 1984 riots in Delhi.
“Ranjit Singh, who rose from the status of a petty chieftain to become the most powerful Indian ruler was also the first and only Sikh ruler of Punjab. His empire extended from Tibet to the deserts of Sindh, and from the Khyber Pass to the Sutlej in the east, with an estimated area of 1, 00,436 sq. miles and a population of five-and-a-half million.” I was particularly inspired by the vastness of the empire of the great Maharaja. Although, the typical political hatred could also be smelled out of the flow of events, overall the book is very much a work of fiction.
The fictional aspects of the book revolves around the central character Hari, a college going young adult who inadvertently discovers himself to be a reincarnation of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the true lion of Punjab and Sikhism. His caring girlfriend Suzanne becomes a rather helpless observer of his previous lives traversing through multiple generations.
Presenting an outline of the major events that led to the creation of modern Punjab and the multiple problems it had to face in its eventful journey; the book will motivate you to know more about the greatness and effectiveness of Ranjit Singh. Anybody who has spent his college or university days in Chandigarh would be able to relate with the flow of fiction in the book. The simplified language of the book interspersed with witty local phrases makes for an easy and compulsive fresh fiction read on the region.
You can buy the book online at Flipkart.
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